I'm proud to call myself a quitter today. I failed my first test of Nepalese mountaineering; Everest is nowhere in my sights.
I did what every good backpacker does when they check into Kathmandu. I got myself a room in Thamel, I drank my way through several fabulous daiquaris to shake off the noodle aftertaste of Tibet and I, of course, booked myself into a trek. It was supposed to be just a baby one, four days only, to give myself a taste for the country life in Nepal.
But three-quarters of the way through, the rain got the better of me. Day one was five hours walk uphill, in the mud in the rain. Day two was nine hours walk uphill in the mud in the rain. Today was a sinch - just five hours through the mud but downhill in the rain. My fancy new Chinese made Goretex jacket didn't cut the grade so for the last 60 hours I've been damp. Cos it's wet inside the guesthouses as well, so nothing dries overnight. Oh, and did I mention the leeches?!
So when people tell you to wait out the monsoon in Nepal, believe 'em! Sit back in Thamel with your Nepali tea in the morning, your mango daiquari in the evening. Go to yoga, buy some pashminas.
So, with my mango daiquari and my now-dry, quitters feet, I toast to Thamel and I toast to foolhardy mountaineers who's boots I can't fill.
Monday 30 July 2007
Wednesday 11 July 2007
I'm gonna get HIIIIGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!
Now that I've had my political rant, let me tell you what I've been up to.
Neither words nor pictures can express how awsome Tibet is because it is also a place of smells and sounds. Today was my last day in Lhasa, so I took the most sacred of holy walks, that being around the Jokhang Temple in the middle of the Tibetan town. It was a rainy morning, cold, so at 8am I was the only westerner with a flock of Tibetan pilgrams, equipped with their prayer wheels and hot flasks of yak wax to keep the candles burning. It was so smoky in the Jokhang that it was sometimes difficult to breathe, but listening to a fold of monks chanting the morning mantras, and lining up with the locals to pay my respects to the main buddha - Suryamuni - made up for the lack of air.
Yesterday I went to the beautiful Potala Palace, home of my main man the Dalai Lama. It was wonderful to be there just knowing the age of the place and that it is so special to Tibetans. Unfortunately you have to look past the terrible propaganda of how the Chinese liberated Tibetans from slavery blah blah, plus the very annoying Chinese tour groups that screech over the silence, to enjoy the place. I don't mean to be racist but again, they shouldn't be here. And it's ironic that these people are so enjoying a place that they have tried to tear down, enjoying the home of someone they won't recognise.
So my internet time is up - I'll leave it at that. I'm off to sacred Mt Kailash (7000m +) for 12 days tomorrow, then to Kathmandu. Here we come Nepal!
Quit work, come to beautiful Tibet.
Neither words nor pictures can express how awsome Tibet is because it is also a place of smells and sounds. Today was my last day in Lhasa, so I took the most sacred of holy walks, that being around the Jokhang Temple in the middle of the Tibetan town. It was a rainy morning, cold, so at 8am I was the only westerner with a flock of Tibetan pilgrams, equipped with their prayer wheels and hot flasks of yak wax to keep the candles burning. It was so smoky in the Jokhang that it was sometimes difficult to breathe, but listening to a fold of monks chanting the morning mantras, and lining up with the locals to pay my respects to the main buddha - Suryamuni - made up for the lack of air.
Yesterday I went to the beautiful Potala Palace, home of my main man the Dalai Lama. It was wonderful to be there just knowing the age of the place and that it is so special to Tibetans. Unfortunately you have to look past the terrible propaganda of how the Chinese liberated Tibetans from slavery blah blah, plus the very annoying Chinese tour groups that screech over the silence, to enjoy the place. I don't mean to be racist but again, they shouldn't be here. And it's ironic that these people are so enjoying a place that they have tried to tear down, enjoying the home of someone they won't recognise.
So my internet time is up - I'll leave it at that. I'm off to sacred Mt Kailash (7000m +) for 12 days tomorrow, then to Kathmandu. Here we come Nepal!
Quit work, come to beautiful Tibet.
Monday 9 July 2007
Free Tibet bandwagon
So, all of you know how I love a good argument, and a political one at that. In my defence, all I knew of the political situation in Tibet before coming here was a few 'Free Tibet' signs being held up by dredlocked-wearing hippies at university open days all of 10 years ago.
But coming to Tibet, one cannot help getting caught up in the political - and emotional - situation here.
I can't read your comments, guys, because I think the Chinese government prevent blogspot from being viewed. But I guess (hope) that some of them from he most recent post express envy and good wishes for me being here. And if so, for wonderful reason. The scenery is spectacular; the people gorgeous - in looks and manner.
As you walk around, you cannot be more struck by how different the Tibetan culture is to the Chinese and therefore, how unjust the Chinese occupation. 1.2 million Tibetans have died - either through stavation brought about by Chinese communist methods, or by slaughter from the Red Guards - since the Chinese occupation 50 years ago. In a country of 4 million people, that's a lot.
There are small injustices. The fact that part of the walk at the Potala Palace now goes anti-clockwise - in strict opposition to the clockwise way of the Buddhist pilgrims; the fact that the holy stones at Namsto Lake have a Chinese building on the top; the fact that all the signs in Lhasa are written in Chinese bold script, the Tibetan words (if they appear at all) are smaller. There are no pictures of the Dalai Lama allowed in Tibet. The current Panchen Lama (second in charge) named by the Dalai, has been in custody for some countless years. And the Chinese have named a different Panchen in his place, hopefully to usurp the position of the Dalai. Pilgims at the Jokhang Temple in the centre of town are jostled by police as the walk through to pray and chapels are shut without reason.
The Dalai himself says the political situation here is complicated. I am no expert but from here in Lhasa, in my bones, it feels like this gorgeous place should be free to be its own. To be peaceful. Free Tibet.
But coming to Tibet, one cannot help getting caught up in the political - and emotional - situation here.
I can't read your comments, guys, because I think the Chinese government prevent blogspot from being viewed. But I guess (hope) that some of them from he most recent post express envy and good wishes for me being here. And if so, for wonderful reason. The scenery is spectacular; the people gorgeous - in looks and manner.
As you walk around, you cannot be more struck by how different the Tibetan culture is to the Chinese and therefore, how unjust the Chinese occupation. 1.2 million Tibetans have died - either through stavation brought about by Chinese communist methods, or by slaughter from the Red Guards - since the Chinese occupation 50 years ago. In a country of 4 million people, that's a lot.
There are small injustices. The fact that part of the walk at the Potala Palace now goes anti-clockwise - in strict opposition to the clockwise way of the Buddhist pilgrims; the fact that the holy stones at Namsto Lake have a Chinese building on the top; the fact that all the signs in Lhasa are written in Chinese bold script, the Tibetan words (if they appear at all) are smaller. There are no pictures of the Dalai Lama allowed in Tibet. The current Panchen Lama (second in charge) named by the Dalai, has been in custody for some countless years. And the Chinese have named a different Panchen in his place, hopefully to usurp the position of the Dalai. Pilgims at the Jokhang Temple in the centre of town are jostled by police as the walk through to pray and chapels are shut without reason.
The Dalai himself says the political situation here is complicated. I am no expert but from here in Lhasa, in my bones, it feels like this gorgeous place should be free to be its own. To be peaceful. Free Tibet.
Thursday 5 July 2007
Tibet: ouch you amazing place!
Hi guys
Nothing can do Tibet justice except to say - it is stunning, stunning, stunning! I am pinching myself I am here! I've been off the plane for a whole 9 hours but already it's clear to me why people flock to this place.
The 95 km journey from the airport unveiled sandy granite hills reflected in unpolluted, green / blue brooks; prayer flags dotted across bridges and streams, and a deep blue sky - like virgin ice - us being up at this altitude (Lhasa is 3700 metres above sea level said to be one of the highest cities in the world).
I've spent my last few hours getting bearings in the higgledy-piggledy backlanes around Barkhor Square, the old tibetan area around the Jokhang Temple. The people watching has been fantastic - withered old ladies carrying prayer wheels; worshipers prostrating in a parade around the main square; horsemen with skin like leather and matted hair, and all sorts of different ethic dress. Words fail me.
And the people are lovely - tonnes of smiles and I've made some local friends already. A little girl took some of the only pics of me I have on this tour and I met some sisters who are giving me a mini tour so they can practice their english.
And what a day to be in Lhasa, for it's the Dalai Lama's birthday I'm told. There won't be pomp and circumstance but I will make my pilgramage to the beautiful Potala Palace anyway. I'm pinching myself!
xx
Nothing can do Tibet justice except to say - it is stunning, stunning, stunning! I am pinching myself I am here! I've been off the plane for a whole 9 hours but already it's clear to me why people flock to this place.
The 95 km journey from the airport unveiled sandy granite hills reflected in unpolluted, green / blue brooks; prayer flags dotted across bridges and streams, and a deep blue sky - like virgin ice - us being up at this altitude (Lhasa is 3700 metres above sea level said to be one of the highest cities in the world).
I've spent my last few hours getting bearings in the higgledy-piggledy backlanes around Barkhor Square, the old tibetan area around the Jokhang Temple. The people watching has been fantastic - withered old ladies carrying prayer wheels; worshipers prostrating in a parade around the main square; horsemen with skin like leather and matted hair, and all sorts of different ethic dress. Words fail me.
And the people are lovely - tonnes of smiles and I've made some local friends already. A little girl took some of the only pics of me I have on this tour and I met some sisters who are giving me a mini tour so they can practice their english.
And what a day to be in Lhasa, for it's the Dalai Lama's birthday I'm told. There won't be pomp and circumstance but I will make my pilgramage to the beautiful Potala Palace anyway. I'm pinching myself!
xx
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